Of all the seasons, the onset of winter is the one I
dread most. The switch to winter-time, the too-early sunsets and consecutive,
dark, cloudy days that go on for weeks on end is enough to play havoc on your
sense of time – and your skin. For those
of us who grew up in less temperate climes, it becomes a real challenge to keep
your skin hydrated and happy.
Even as the leaves turn yellow and all the plants slowly
turn dormant, my skin instantly knows. If I
am not diligent enough, the back of my hand starts to resemble papyrus overnight. My heels crack, leaving unsightly and painful
cuts that make walking difficult. After the temperature drops to less than +10
Celcius, I find it impossible to go out without some sort of thermal underwear
on top of my jeans, which makes my legs suffer even more.
Here’s a tip: Ladies, if you have sensitive skin or are
prone to UTI or thrush (candida) infections, avoid polyester base/thermal
layers. They keep you warm, but don’t wick away the sweat well enough, and at
least in my case, usually aggravates the infection. It’s still best to stick to
cotton (not so warm, but cheap), bamboo (uncommon, Gudrun Sjöden has some,
fairly warm but costly), wool (toasty, but expensive – check sports stores like
Intersport or Stadium) or wool blends if you can’t find woolen ones that you
like (most common – Åhlens , Twilfit, Kappahl, etc carry these).
It took me a few years of struggling with off-the-counter
lotions and cremes that Apoteket and The Body Shop carries before I had the
courage to experiment with non-commercial products. After that I learnt to make
my own lotions and creams. So here I have compiled some of the oils and butters
I have tried that have been most helpful.
For completeness sake, here is a short list of
moisturizers that I've tried that didn't do much for me: Nivea crème (metal tub);
Aco Body Hudlotion; Body Shop’s Cocoa body butter; Atrix Intensiv; CCS
Hudlotion(older variant); Locobase Repair; various Yves Rocher stuff, don’t
remember which ones though.
If you've used any of these products or similar, and still suffer from horribly dry skin, read on.
Let's start with some commercial brands.
-
L’occitane Shea butter series. Shea butter blends are becoming ubiquitous,
and you’ll see it being used in many brands. But if you’re prone to terrible
dryness, use only their Pure Shea Butter (available in 10ml and 150ml tubs).
Unlike normal lotions, pure shea butter gives your skin a slightly water-resistant
coating, which means your hands don’t get dry just because you had to rinse it during cooking etc. If you use strong soap /detergent, it will wash off, but it will not make
your hands feel drier afterwards, as some other formulas can. However. Despite the organic
label, their shea butter is white and odourless because it has been refined. They don't mention how it has been refined, but many seed butters are refined with hexane, which has some nasty side-effects at high exposure rates. Doubtless any hexane residue amount is negligible if there is any left in shea butter refined this way, so the risk of toxicity is probably very low.
-
The Body Shop Hemp series. If you can stand the exaggerated earthy smell, their Hemp body butter is a fairly rich, moisturizing cream that works
better than the chain’s other body butters. Be aware that it does contain
preservatives, fragrances and colour dyes.
-
Weleda brand. I have only sampled their lotions,
and have not been impressed by the cost-effectiveness of their products. Their
body oils seem to have fairly good ingredients, but I would prefer to see more
jojoba-heavy based blends, and less or no olive-oil.
Pure oils/butters I've tried with great (and not-so great) success.
Shea Butter/ Sheasmör
As far as possible, get organic and unrefined shea, to ensure
that your skin benefits from all the good vitamins inherent in the butter. The
colour of the butter, as noted above, ranges from a light creamy white to
butter-yelllow. The unrefined stuff has
a distinct (faint to fairly strong) nutty scent, which can be masked by an
essential oil of your choice if you find it objectionable. It
can last up till 2 years if kept cool (put it in the fridge in warmer months). Because
it is a nut butter, if it gets too old, you'll know when not to use it – the
rancid nut butter smell is unmistakable, resembling stale cookies.
Shea butter is used as a food item in African
communities, so I am rather less worried about cooking or touching my mouth after application. The
taste is not unpleasant or bitter, just unusual.
For extremely dry skin,
nothing beats shea butter. Even if you have cuts or painful cracked heels,
using this butter hurts less than washing it with peroxide or an alcohol wipe,
and can help the healing process - rub some on your cracked heels before sleeping, pull on a pair of socks to protect your bedding, and you'll notice a remarkable difference the next day.
There are 2 kinds of shea butter. The one that is more
common, Butyrospermum parkii, tends to come from
Ghana /West Africa. This is the same stuff that ends up being used in many
commercial shea butter blends.
The other, East African shea butter (mainly from
Sudan/Uganda) is marketed as Shea Nilotica. It is a little harder to find, and
usually sells for much higher than its West African cousin.
Yes, there is a difference, but slight. The lower melting
point of the Nilotica means that it’s a lot easier to use directly as body
butter; it spreads easily and smoothly, and imo is a little more readily
absorbed by the skin. All butters feel somewhat oily on application, but after
10-15mins (15-20 for Western shea), the Nilotica should be fully absorbed.
Whichever butter one you choose, a little does
go a long way.
By contrast, the West African butter has a higher melting
point, and when you put it on neat, has a slightly waxy consistency. It will
still melt readily with your body heat, just not as quickly as the Nilotica.
However, it is a much more economical butter. I have experimented
with blends of the Western shea butter with some other oils for my own personal use, with good results.
Apart from Nordic online stores (most of which sell the
Western variety), eBay.co.uk is a good source for shea butter at reasonable
prices. If you’re worried about
quality/purity, look out for butters sold with Pure Soil Certification.
Coconut butter/ Kokossmör
Coconut butter. Some people swear by it and can happily slather
it on. To me, despite all its benefits, coconut butter is reminiscent of slightly
rancid sun-tan lotion, so I can’t bear to use it by itself. If you don’t mind the
strong coconut scent, then this is fine to use. It is a litte more greasy
than shea, leaving a noticeable film on the skin not unlike olive oil, although
it will eventually be absorbed if your skin is dry enough. (Otherwise, wait 15 minutes and wipe off the excess with a towel.)
Coconut butter has a lower melting point that shea, so it
melts in summer even sitting in a dark shelf at home. On the plus side, coconut butter is now
easily available in most supermarkets, not just health supplements stores like
Life, and there are several organic brands to choose from.
Tip: If you like to make your own popcorn at home, coconut
butter greatly improves its taste. Substitute
half of the oil with coconut butter.
Cocoa butter/ Kakaosmör
Cocoa butter is also common in commercial lotions,
make-up and butter blends - such as Body Shop products (listed as Theobroma Cacao). At room temperature, it is very difficult to use
because it has a much higher melting point than shea butter.
Holding it in your hand will eventually melt the
butter, but don't hold your breath - it takes longer than a bar of chocolate does.
For this reason, I use cocoa butter in my DIY butter
blends, but never more than roughly 30% of total fats, since I prefer a spreadable
body butter that is fairly solid in the jar but melts readily in the palm of my
hand.
Like shea, cocoa butter is also readily available in online stores and eBay.
While it is edible, I can't recommend eating it. Despite
the familiar, mouth-watering scent, it will taste like… unsalted (cow)
butter.
Jojoba oil/ Jojobaolja
Of all the oils I’ve tried, jojoba is much more readily
absorbed by the skin. Within seconds of application, it leaves your skin nice
and hydrated, with little or no trace of oiliness at all. Some report slightly
nutty scent not unlike sesame, but I have not noticed that myself.
Jojoba is a great all-rounder, you can use it on any part
of the body; as a make-up remover, cuticle oil, etc. You will have to work
quickly with this oil so that it spread out evenly, although I have noticed
that your skin will only absorb what it needs – so for eg your hands might need
a little more oil than the rest of your body.
While jojoba will give you a little water resistance, especially shortly
after application, shea butter will give you much better water resistance (and
better protection since it stays on longer).
The main disadvantage to this lovely oil is the price. 250SEK
for 80-100ml is rather steep, if you use about 10ml (2 teaspoons) per all-over
application. But to make up for the high price, jojoba oil typically has a
longer shelf-life than most other oils/butters, 3-4 years. You'll notice too, that for extremely dry skin, you might need several applications to attain the same amount of skin hydration as a single dose of shea butter.
I buy Aura Cacia from
iHerb (
http://www.iherb.com?rcode=PLH160), since even with shipping from the US it is slightly more cost effective. Try to keep your order from iHerb small, and you might be lucky enough to avoid import taxes on your purchase - but this doesn't always work.
Argan oil/ Arganolja
Marketed as a body and hair oil, prices have skyrocketed
in recent years. The unrefined oil has a very faint nutty smell which can and
does remind one of food (even though the oil I bought was not meant as a food
item). It has similar benefits as
jojoba.
Absorption rate is somewhere between jojoba and shea, but
due to its high price tag, I find that jojoba is a much better alternative.
Olive oil/ Olivolja
I was recommended this by a friend shortly after landing
in Sweden. Organic, cold pressed olive
oil is widely available in Europe at fairly reasonable prices, but it is not
without its drawbacks.
Firstly, it isn’t as absorbed as quickly or as well as
the other oils, leaving a sticky, slimy feel long after application. Secondly,
since I am sensitive to scents, I can't shake the feeling that I've been rolling
around in salad oil for hours after application.
Ostrich oil/ Stutsolja
Probably the most exotic oil I have tried, from Sahlins
Struts (98kr /50ml). It does work, but I
find it rather costly in the long run, and the natural oil smells like used
cooking oil (tbh, like oil that you’ve used to cook chicken in). The sample I
tried had some sediments (the oil was not clear) but it did not seem to affect
its effectiveness.
Like jojoba, it is absorbed failry quickly, but it feels a little oilier than jojoba. Thankfully the feeling of oiliness does not
last as long as olive oil.
It works as body oil, but I find that it works
best as a foot oil. If you object to the natural scent, buy a scented version
or add a few drops of your favourite essential oil and give the bottle a shake
– this may improve the scent somewhat but unless you are using something strong like
peppermint, you will likely still detect the animalistic nature of the oil.
Pure Lanolin/ Lanolin, ullfett
Derived from the fat of sheep’s wool, lanolin is almost
always sold refined. Many lip butter blends / chapsticks and breast/nipple creams for
nursing mothers include lanolin in their ingredients list.
It looks a lot like starch glue (old-style paper glue)
with a yellow tinge, and feels rather like it too. It gives great water
resistance (better than shea), but it does feel like you have to devote a lot
more time massaging it in compared to the other butters or oils. It tends to stain much more, too.
Making your own
blends.
Why DIY? You have better control of the ingredients, and as such can add your own custom scents with your favourite essential oil. With some patience, you’ll learn which butter or oil works best with your skin.
And, if you buy in bulk, it may save you a tidy sum – for eg, L’occitane sells their 150g tubs of “pure” shea butter for around 380SEK. For roughly the same amount, you could get at least 250g-500g of unrefined, organic western shea butter. In fact, any shea that is completely white – such as the L’occitane one – is considered a lower grade, because it has been refined. This is why quite a number of eBay sellers claim that they are selling A grade butter – the unprocessed butter is usually cream or butter-yellow.
I frequently use a blend of shea and cocoa butters, and
another liquid oil in my own blends to make a nice spreadable body butter. Here I have included 2 basic recipes that you can easily tweak to suit your own needs, especially if you prefer to avoid the commercial stuff.
Rich Body Butter
Blend. Makes roughly 300g
150g shea butter
75g cocoa butter
75g jojoba or other liquid oil OR 25g coconut butter + 50g
jojoba or other liquid oil.
15-18 drops of essential oil single or blend of your
choice. ** (optional)
eg, 5 drops lavender,
5 drops lemongrass, 6 drops rose geranium.
- Using a bain marie or chocolate melting pot (choklad smältare - use one with a removable pan + handle), melt
butters together. Transfer to a larger bowl or container.
- Add liquid oil, and whisk (by hand or using a stick
blender) until evenly combined.
- Chill butter/oil blend by either placing it on top of a
bowl filled with ice, or leaving it in your fridge for 3-5 mins.
- Whisk for at least 1 minute. Return to fridge for a
further 5 minutes.
- Gradually add scents/ essential oils while whisking
for the third time.
- Repeat step 3-4 until it achieves a consistency you
like. (Whisking/chilling longer will result in a harder body butter, which may be a little more difficult to use).
- Spoon into sterilized jars. Leave to settle for 24
hours before use.
Non-greasy body
butter blend
It is not as “fat”/ rich as the previous blend, and is much easier to
spread, and is quickly absorbed by the skin. If you dislike the oily feeling that a rich body butter can have, this one will be better for you. Makes roughly 250ml lotion.
90 ml Aloe Vera juice
90 g cocoa butter
60g wheatgerm or other liquid oil (such as jojoba)
20g coconut butter
12-15 drops essential oil of your choice ** (optional)
- In a bain marie or a chocolate melting pot, melt coconut
and cocoa butters.
- Heat aloe vera juice until tepid (30-32 deg C).
- Combine wheatgerm oil with melted butters with a stick
blender.
- Slowly combine aloe vera juice (one teaspoon at a time)
with oils and butter until there is no separation of oils and liquids.
- To cool, leave in fridge for 5 minutes. The lotion should
have the consistency of toothpaste.
- Add essential oils drop by drop, whisking/ run with stick blender until desired
consistency is achieved.
- Pour into sterilized jars or containers.
Your custom butter blend will last much longer if you keep it in the fridge. You can also google a whole bunch of recipes and youtube videos on how to make your own butter, but it will all come down to melting and mixing it up - avoid those that use beeswax (bivax), in my experience if you don't blend it well enough, it will turn up as small granules in your body butter, which does not melt at all! No worries if you're using it in chapsticks/ lip butter though.
** Since winter
dryness affects the entire body, it may be useful to include essential oils
that promote saliva or glandular secretions. These include lemongrass, cinnamon,
peppermint, bergamot, ginger, and orange essential oils. Always dilute essential oils, and watch out
for allergic reactions – these may include severe itching, rashes, etc. Also citrus EOs such as bergamot and orange have been known to cause photosensitivity, and is probably best left out in products you want to use in the day time.